Walleye fishing tips

“Should You Release That Walleye? The Real Truth About Catch-and-Release”

~ Patriot Conservative Republican

You’ve just landed a fat, 26-inch walleye. You’re grinning like a maniac, net in one hand and adrenaline in the other. Now the real question hits: do you keep it or release it?
You’ve been told releasing big fish helps the population… but does it really? Or are you just giving the next guy dinner and giving the DNR a reason to stock fewer fish next year?

Let’s cut through the fluff and break down when, how, and why releasing big walleye actually matters — and when it doesn’t.

1. The Two Types of Lakes: Spawning vs. Stocked

Natural Spawning Lakes:
These lakes rely on wild reproduction. Big females (especially over 24″) are crucial to the gene pool. Killing them means fewer eggs and lower-quality offspring.

Stocked Lakes:
These are “put-and-take” fisheries. Walleye are dumped in by the DNR to provide angler harvest opportunities. Releasing big fish here doesn’t support reproduction — it might just make future stocking less likely if surveys show “plenty of fish.”

Bottom Line:
Release big fish in spawning lakes. Feel less guilty keeping them in stocked lakes.

2. How to Tell if a Lake is Stocked or Natural

  • Use the MN DNR LakeFinder
  • Check the stocking tab and lake survey
    • Frequent fry/fingerling additions = stocked
    • Reports of natural reproduction = spawning lake
  • Rocky, windswept shorelines and connected rivers = spawning potential
  • Shallow, silty bowls = likely stocked

3. When Releasing Big Fish Actually Helps

Release matters when:

  • It’s a natural spawning lake
  • The fish is healthy, uninjured, and handled properly
  • You’re fishing during or before spawn (spring)
  • You can confidently ID the fish as a large female

When It Doesn’t Help Much:

  • It’s a stocked lake with no reproduction
  • It’s hot, the fish is stressed or deep-hooked
  • Another angler is just going to bonk it anyway

4. How to Maximize Survival If You Do Release

  • Hook fast – Don’t let them swallow it
  • Use barbless or single hooks – Less damage
  • Handle gently with wet hands or rubber nets – Protect the slime coat
  • Keep them in the water – Under 10 seconds of air exposure
  • No livewell revival – Hold fish upright into current until strong
  • Avoid deep or warm-water fishing – Mortality rates spike in summer

“Catch and release” only works if the fish actually survives.

5. Male vs. Female: Should You Let Her Go?

  • Big females = more and better-quality eggs → release if possible
  • Males are smaller and more expendable
  • Outside of spring, it’s hard to tell.
    • Rule of thumb: big = likely female

6. Smart Harvest Strategy

  • Stocked lakes → Keep legal, healthy fish
  • Spawning lakes → Harvest small/mid-size, release trophies
  • Hybrid systems → Lean toward selective harvest

A dead 26″ walleye in a stocked lake = dinner
A dead 26″ walleye in a spawning lake = genetic loss

Final Thoughts

Let’s stop pretending every release is an act of conservation sainthood.
Sometimes you’re just giving the next guy a nicer fillet.
But sometimes, releasing that fish does matter.

Know your lake. Know your impact. And don’t release a fish if you’ve already killed it.

Keep what you’ll eat, keep what won’t survive release, and only release fish you’re confident will live.
Above all—don’t waste what you catch.

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Devils Lake Walleye Fishing Tactics

~ Patriot Conservative Republican

Walleye Fishing Tactics: Devils Lake, ND

Spring

<50°F (Early Spring)

  • Tactics: Slip-bobber rigs with leeches, slow plastic retrieves, small crankbaits on warm afternoons.
  • Gear: Medium-light to medium 7–9 ft rods, 6–8 lb fluorocarbon leader.
  • Baits: Paddle-tail plastics, small stickbaits, fatheads, leeches.
  • Structure/Depth: Dark-bottom bays, flooded timber, shallow gravel areas.

50–60°F (Late Spring)

  • Tactics: Shallow presentations, spinner rigs, blade baits, shallow cranks.
  • Gear: Medium-power rods 7–8 ft, 8–10 lb braid.
  • Baits: 3–4″ plastics, crankbaits, leeches or minnows on Lindy rigs.
  • Structure/Depth: 5–15 ft flats, weedbeds, culverts, flooded timber.

Summer

60–70°F (Early Summer)

  • Tactics: Fish low-light with spinners/cranks; jig weed edges; slip-bobber in timber.
  • Gear: Medium rods 7–8 ft, 8–12 lb line for jigs/cranks.
  • Baits: Hair jigs, crankbaits, swimbaits, live bait on slip rigs.
  • Structure/Depth: 10–15 ft humps, weedlines, flooded timber, channel edges.

>70°F (Mid-Summer)

  • Tactics: Trolling crankbaits, bottom-bouncers in 15–30 ft, vertical jigging.
  • Gear: Medium-heavy rods 7–8 ft, 15–20 lb braid.
  • Baits: Crankbaits, glidebaits, crawler harnesses, heavy jigs.
  • Structure/Depth: Deep humps, drop-offs, mid-lake reefs, basin edges.

Fall

60–70°F (Early Fall)

  • Tactics: Slip-bobbers in timber, jigs with minnows, crankbaits on flats.
  • Gear: Medium rods 6–7 ft, 8–10 lb line.
  • Baits: Bucktail jigs, Gulp minnows, shallow crankbaits.
  • Structure/Depth: 5–15 ft points, shorelines, flooded wood, culvert mouths.

50–60°F (Mid-Fall)

  • Tactics: Troll crawler harnesses, vertical jigging deeper flats/humps.
  • Gear: Medium rods 6.5–7 ft, 10–12 lb braid.
  • Baits: Jigs with large chubs, leeches, spoons, glidebaits.
  • Structure/Depth: 20–30 ft points, deep edges, flooded roadbeds, humps.

<50°F (Late Fall)

  • Tactics: Slow jigging, slip-bobbering, night fishing with crankbaits.
  • Gear: 6.5–7 ft medium-light rods, 6–8 lb fluoro.
  • Baits: Fathead minnows, jigging raps, leeches.
  • Structure/Depth: 6–12 ft flats, timber, rocky drops, staging areas.